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Builders Tips

Problems/Solutions

How do you get the Rudder & Aileron Cables under the pulleys without removing them ?
First remove the nut/washer & seat belt from the end of the 8mm bolt. Next withdraw the bolt very carefully, until it is through the bracket (on the nut side). Remove the two washers from between the bracket and the first pulley. Remove the first pulley from the end of the bolt, do not withdraw the bolt any further than needed. You can now slip the cables around and underneath the pulleys. Rudder cable, two Aileron cables then the other Rudder cable. Refit the pulley having first added a little grease to hold the two washers in place. You will proberly have to wedge out the bracket a little to fit all back into position. Refit seat belt, washer & nut.

How do you fit the beading around the lip of the pod, it is not very pliable ?
Put the beading into a basin of hot water, this will soften it for easy fitting, or using a heat gun, work your way around the lip of the pod, heating the beading as you go.
 

Mod's Tips & Idea's

  • Replace Pin's at front mounting of compression strut (114) with 6 x 30mm bolt's, also adding washer in between gap in end, to prevent movement fore & aft in the suspension (and subsequent wear), and to prevent rattles.
  • Add 25mm x 25mm Black (or white if you can get them) plastic end plugs to front forks, to prevent the build up of dirt.
  • Fit 4mm anchor nuts to dash top, this will allow easy removal of Instrument panel for future work.
  • Underneath the right hand seat is a great place for storing maps etc, first block up the rear gap, with a bit of foam (Armaflex) or similar.
  • When fitting switch's into dash panel, install with the groove in the switch facing 'up' for correct sense, i.e. Down Off.
  • When fitting windscreen/pod/dash top, drill the holes 4.5mm, not 4mm, for the 4mm bolts, as Lexan expands & contracts, and this will leave clearance, to prevent small cracks developing, around holes at a later stage.
  • The black plastic sleeve's on the Rudder and Aileron cables, should be positioned as follows :-   The sleeves on the Aileron cables, should be pushed fully forward, so that they protect the Aileron cables, under the floor, and add protection where they come in contact with the Front Floor Tube 143.

    The Rudder sleeves, should be positioned BEHIND the pulley assembly, so that they provide protection, where the cables cross each other.  In order to stop sleeves sliding up & down the cables, I would suggest tapeing them in place.

  • Do not fit the deeper/longer instruments, i.e. ALT & VSI, too low down on dash panel, as they will obstruct your feet, especially when using the toe brakes.
  • The number labels that are some times stuck to the fabric, can be removed easily enough, with good old soap and water. Also the parcel tape used in the packaging can sometimes leave pieces stuck to the tubing, this can be removed by using Car "T Cut". 

    Xair Wiring Loom + Diagram

    A lot of builders seem to be confused over the wiring loom that is supplied in the kit. Some builders have even went to the trouble of, Re-wiring it "their way".
    The wiring loom as supplied is actually very good when you understand how it is laid out especially if you are fitting a Rotax engine.

    Wiring
    Starting at the dash end of the loom, all the negative (black) wires are commoned/joined at the Ignition switch's. Thier will be one, dual colored wire, coming from each of the Ignition switch's, to the plastic socket, these are the engine Dual Ignition wires, and will exit at the engine side of the loom, these will normally be connected to the two, Black/Yellow wires coming from the engine.

    A loose Black wire, will be coming from an Ignition switch, this is used to connect to one side of the engine rev counter, the loose Grey wire, coming from the plastic socket, is then connected to the other side of the rev counter, this Grey wire, will also exit at the engine side of the loom, and is connected to the Grey wire coming from the engine.
    The Black wire that also exit's at the engine side, should be connected to some part of the engine casing. It is also a good idea to connect another wire from this point, to some part of the airframe. You now have all the wiring completed, if you are not fitting a battery.

    If installing a battery, proberly for an electric start, you will need to complete the rest of the wiring.
    A Red wire with an eyelet fitted to it, will be exiting the plastic socket, at the engine side of the loom. This is connected to the Positive side of the battery, this Red wire, then goes down the loom, and exits from the plastic socket at the dash side, it will also have an eyelet fitted to it, and should be connected to one side of the Ampmeter.
    Coming from the fuse holder will be two Orange wires, one will have an eyelet fitted, this then, connects to the other side of the Ampmeter.
    An Orange wire will be coming from the plastic socket, and will be joined to the black wire from the Key switch, with a spade connector. The other Orange wire from the fuse holder, connects here.

    This might seem confusing as the Orange wire is now going back up the loom to the engine side again. The way it works is, the battery positive, red wire, is fed down the loom, through the Ampmeter, (which will now show current drawn) and through the 15A fuse, (which protects everything from here on), to the Key or Master switch.
    The Orange wire is the positive feed or charge coming from the Regulator, which will be fitted at the engine end, by connecting the Orange wire to it's positive output, the two Yellow wires coming from the plastic plug, to it's inputs and the negative output, again connected to the engine casing. Thier will be two further Yellow wires coming from the plastic socket at the engine side, which are connected to the engines charging coil wires which are Yellow & Yellow/Black. (which way around dosn't matter).
    The charge from the Regulator now comes in the Orange wire, through the fuse and the Ampmeter, (which will now show charge taking place), and onto the battery through the Red wire.

    After the Key switch, the Red positive wires are commended/joined at the Aux/Accessory switch.
    When the key switch is turned 'On' the Green LED will come on, positive supply will be now fed to the starter button for the electric start, the Aux switch and the Red wire with a spade terminal fitted to it, which, along with the Black wire, which, also, has a spade terminal, are joined to the Metal plug & socket, which can be used for supply to a GPS, Radio, Intercom etc.
    When the Aux/Accessory switch is turned 'On' the Red LED will come on, and power will be supplied out the wires on the small plastic plug & socket, which is ideal for the Xair Landing Light, or conection to a Strobe light etc.
    The Yellow wire coming from the starter button, will now exit up at the engine, and has a spade connector fitted to it, for connection to the Starter motor solenoid switch.

    The only remaining wire in the Xair loom will be a dual colored wire, with a spade connector fitted to it at the engine end, and just a loose wire at the other. This is a spare or can be used for the engine Water Temp Sender, if fitting a water cooled engine, which would require a Water Temp gauge on the dash.
    This gauge will also need a positive & negative supply, which could come from the Red & Black wires, feeding the metal plug & socket, if you are not fitting it, or solder on two additional wires, so long as it is only 'live' when the Key switch is turned 'On'.

    Wiring Diagram
    The Wiring Diagram can be viewed below, or click on the link to download & save on your hard drive. Xair Wiring Diagram Download.

    Wiring Diagram

     
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